‘Sustainability’ in the Gem Trade
Let’s look at that word Sustainability. Its concept within the gem trade covers the efforts to minimise any environmental impact, work to ensure fair labour practices, and encourage transparency in the precious stone supply chain from sourcing, cutting and polishing, to trading. With the growing consideration of climate change, human rights issues and preservation of the environment, gemstone buyers and producers are increasingly conscious of the wider implications of how gems are mined and traded.
Environmental Impact of Precious Stone Production
The environmental effect of gem production is clearly linked to mining activities; creating a hole in the Earth of any size to extract gems will affect the mining site. The extraction of gemstones, both coloured stones and diamonds, may involve processes that may lead to deforestation, soil erosion, and water pollution. Additionally, large scale mining is energy-intensive and can contribute to greenhouse gas emissions. Open-pit mining, common in coloured stone extraction, may have long-term consequences for the landscape and biodiversity around the mine. Thus reducing the environmental effects of mining has become a focus for sustainability efforts.
Ethical Sourcing of Gems and Labour Practices
The gem trade also faces social challenges related to the geographical sourcing of precious stones. In some countries, gem mining operations have been reported where unsafe working conditions, use of child labour, and human rights violations occur. So called “blood diamonds”, more properly called conflict diamonds, gained global attention in the late 1990s for their role in financing armed conflict, especially in parts of west Africa. Efforts to tackle these concerns include global initiatives such as the Kimberley Process, which aims to prevent the international trade in conflict diamonds. However, the effectiveness of such programmes may vary, and disquiet about effective enforcement remains.
CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation encourages that best practice is observed by the gem and jewellery trade through its Blue Books and its Code of Ethics”1, its Responsible Sourcing Book2 and its “Do’s and Don'ts” Guide3 that relate in part to the correct description of gemstone quality and any gem treatments applied. I attend annual CIBJO conferences and follow their best practice guidelines. The National Association of Jewellers (NAJ) in the UK, to which I am a member, has published several Codes of Practice including Diamond Terminology Guidance4, Gem Description Guidance Note5 and Environmental Claims Guidance Note6.
It is a fact that many of the regions that have traditionally produced the finest examples of coloured stones traded today are governed by unpalatable regimes. I trade demantoid garnets, only the finest from the Ural mountains of Russia. I trade non-treated red spinels and rubies from Burma (known as Myanmar). Both countries currently are not shining examples of liberal democracies respecting the rights of citizens. So should I not offer precious stones sourced from these countries? I do because I know trading the gems I source does not aid the current rulers of these countries. I acquire stock that I know have not been mined recently by sourcing gems from antique jewels, a form of recycling fine gems. Sometimes I purchase from international dealers who can assure me their stock has not been mined recently.
Conclusion
The environmental, moral and economic considerations define the sustainability of the global gem trade. By trading gems that are not new to the market and adhering to ethical standards as promoted by the various trade organisations I endeavour to reduce its negative impact and contribute in my small way to a more responsible gem trade.
References:
CIBJO Code of Ethics https://cibjo.org/code-of-ethics/
CIBJO Responsible Sourcing Blue Book https://cibjo.org/ethics-and-sustainability-resources/
CIBJO Do’s and Don'ts Guide https://cibjo.org/dos-donts-guide/
NAJ Diamond Terminology Guide https://www.naj.co.uk/write/MediaUploads/Resources/NAJCOP-DiamondTerminologyGuide-v2.pdf
NAJ Gem Description Guidance Note https://www.naj.co.uk/write/MediaUploads/Resources/NAJGuidanceNote-Gemstone2024.pdf
NAJ Environmental Claims Guidance Note https://www.naj.co.uk/write/MediaUploads/Resources/NAJGuidanceNote-Gemstone2024.pdf