Salt and pepper diamonds

I started learning about diamond quality and grading in the late 1970s. At that time in Hatton Garden the clarity system used and taught was not the one formulated by the GIA, now universally utilised, but one predating the American system. Towards the lower end of the clarity scale were the Piqué grades, First, Second and Third Piqué (abbreviated P1, P2, P3). Pique is a French adjective meaning dotted (I was taught it meant ‘pricked’) referring to the spotted appearance of the many eye-visible inclusions within the diamonds. Below the Pique grades were the rarely utilised grades Spotted, Heavy Spotted and Rejection - terms used by a number of cutters and dealers for qualities thought so poor that they had little commercial appeal.

Early on I learnt the Scan DN grading system that listed 1st Piqué, 2nd Piqué and 3rd Piqué was the lowest clarity grades (I considered this system the finest to learn, a grading book illustrating each grade with numerous diagrams was published aiding the tyro diamond grader). CIBJO grading terms introduced in the UK forty years ago had similar low grades of P1, P2 and P3 equivalent to the GIA grades of I1, I2 and I3 (the letter I for Included, although originally GIA used the word Imperfect)

Whatever clarity terms were employed to describe these diamonds containing eye visible light and dark crystals, fractures (feathers) and clouds, such low-grade gems were deemed unattractive so cheap to buy. Yet currently there is a growing demand from jewellery designer-makers for diamonds with ‘character’, ones with unusual and unique characteristics, those displaying obvious inclusions. In the place of the terms Pique or I3 one sees the phrase ‘Salt and Pepper’, referring to the sprinkling of inclusions arguably resembling grains of pepper and salt. A marketing ploy using a catchy phrase to make low grade diamonds appealing.

My video on my Instagram feed shows three such ‘salt and pepper’ diamonds. Gross weight is 1.96 carats, the mid sized diamond is 5.7mm. All are untreated. From my teaching collection I used to show diamond students the appearance of I3 clarity diamonds.

Contact me if you are interested in buying. Smaller similar quality diamonds are available.

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